Nepal Trekking Day 6

Day 6: Pheriche (4,270 m) to Thokla (4,620 m) to Labuche (4,910 m)

On this morning we have to drag ourselves out of bed. With the altitude it is getting harder to do anything! But, yet again the weather is gorgeous and we are ready to get out of the teahouse which reeks of yak dung, and has a hole in the plywood floor for a toilet. We need fresh air - bad. Ahhhh, to think just 1.5 weeks ago we were on the beaches of Dubai!!! While I would take the Himalayas over the Dubai desert anyday, the lifestyle is a bit more challenging.

Actually we wouldn't be so annoyed except for the fact that the day before we found a clean lodge with a yummy food menu, clean and bright with windows, and western toilets! Totally deluxe for the Himalaya, but we stick out the 'real' teahouse, telling ourselves we are getting an authentic experience!

The plan for the day is to get the first 4km and a 350m climb out of the way. Sosi the guide tells us it will take 1.5 - 2 hrs to get to our first rest stop in Thokla. I laugh at him and say 'No way, I can see the trail from here and we just have to walk through the level valley which should only take 20-30 mins then a quick left and up a short hill. No problem!" I get laughed at and then we start the journey for the day.

What I didn't realize that since we had now entered a part of the Himalayas where we are in a valley at the base 6,000 - 8,000m mountains. The perspective on size and distance is totally changed. We feel like ants crawling through this valley and it really does take us 2 hours or maybe it was more to get to Thokla. Not only because of the distance but because we have to take a lot of pee and rest breaks.


Walking through the village of Pheriche

The valley that I thought would only take 20-30 mins for us to walk through...

Katie posin' in the Himalaya Valley - Taboche Peak (6,367 m) to the left behind me

Scott posin' with Taboche Peak behind him

Our photo session is allowing us some nice rest breaks along the trail:)

My face is very puffy from the yak dung smoke and the bloating (altitude side effect)

A look back on the trail to Pheriche

Even with the sun, it was pretty cold. I am wearing my glovies!!!

First sight of Thokla!

Bridge crossing into Thokla

Our final stop on our trek into the Himalaya... Thokla (4,620 m)

We are about 7km from Everest Base Camp and our final planned destination of Kala Patthar. Unfortunately during the last 200 m climb up to this point Scott started getting symptoms of AMS.

- every 2-3 steps he had to stop and catch his breath

- he had led and been in front of me most of the trek to this point, now he was falling way behind (we found out this was a key indicator from HRA talk)

- throbbing headache in the back of his head

- dizziness and 'drunk' feeling

Poor guy!!!

Since the only cure for AMS is to descent, our guide suggests we go back to Pheriche. Unfortunately it is only 350 m lower in elevation and ideally you want to get the person down at least 1000 m. If things dont improve in Pheriche, we will try and hike all the way back down to Tengboche today.

Things didn't get better, the HRA gave him some Diamox to help his symptoms but we made the decision to try and make it down 1000 m. We didn't really feel like ending our trip with a helicopter rescue!

Nepal Trekking Day 5

Day 5: Deboche (3,710 m) to Pheriche (4,270 m)

Again, we wake up to clear skies, sun and cool temps - perfect trekking weather (tough life, I know!)

The first part of the trip I was pretty sick - bad cold/bronchitis. The dry and clean mountain air did the trick to get me better (or maybe was that the prescription strength meds I bought in Namche - courtesy of a Bangledesh pharmaceutical company?)

Anyway, seems that the sickness has passed on to Scott. He is feeling miserable and with the elevations that we are getting to now (above 4000 m) sickness usually doesn't get better, it gets worse. But we keep moving on.

Bridge crossing...
View of Everest from the bridge



Stupa and mani stones are scattered among the trail, protecting the trekkers.


We spot musk deer

Little Sherpa guy... he was a naughty one!

more mani stones...

If I remember right, this is a view of Island Peak. A common mountain for trekkers to climb as a side trip

In Pheriche there is a clinic for the Himalaya Rescue Association (HRA). In the peak trekking and climbing seasons (spring and fall) there are 3 expat doctors based here to provide support to the travellers as well as the Nepalese people. You can make an appointment with the doctor if you are not well, they have a mini-pharmacy so you can buy ibuprofen for the altitude headaches and Diamox for altitude sickness if needed. Every afternoon at 4.00 they give a talk about Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), so we attended.

It was very informative, they explained why you get sick at altitude and what you can do to prevent/lessen the risk. Unfortunately, the statistic is 1 in 4 that people will get AMS and it doesnt matter your fitness, experience, age, etc...

We also had the chance to ask a lot of questions - it also confirmed that some of the altitude side effects that we were having (gas, bloating, headache, CRAZY dreams, etc...) were totally normal. The main thing we learned is to identify when symptoms go from normal to full blown AMS. There is no cure except to descend!!! You can take diamox but that will only relieve symptoms for a short time.

In the picture above they are demonstrating the Gamov Bag (hyperbaric chamber) which delivers oxygen to the patient.

Village of Pheriche - yup, not a whole lot here!

Our teahouse in Pheriche

Nepal Trekking Day 4

Day 4: Namche to Tengboche (3,860 m) to Deboche (3,710 m)

Today it is back on the trail for the next 3 days until it is time to acclimate again. As usual we wake up to clear skies, sun and cool temps.

The hike takes us to tree line and above as you will see in the pictures, we will also get into Rhodedendron forest, so a big change in the flora and fauna from this point forward. Today we also have our first great views of Everest!

While Everest peak is in view now, many of the other peaks start to disappear we are now so far into the valley that our views of the Himalya peaks start to change. For example, we start to see mountains Ama Dablam from the bottom and Thamserku from the backside. Because the change in perspective, I have to keep asking the guide what we are looking at!



Scott ready to start the day!



Scott and Katie with the trail and Mt Ama Dablam (6,856 m) behind us.


In the Sherpa Villages they create terraces for growing their crops.



The trail ahead of us, cut into the hillside.




A Sherpa Village traffic jam... Sosi (our guide) helps to move the yaks through!


Namaste, little one!


Karma points for Katie??? Donation to the villages to help them preserve and repair the trail.


Village prayer wheel




Mt Ama Dablam from the foot of the mountain.

After we climb the final 200 m into Tengboche, this is the first view. Mount Everest and Lhotse Shar in the background. This was one of the most amazing sights for me on the trip. Right at the top of the final climb you turn a corner and have this view, we had to stop sit down and take it all in before moving further.


More Everest and Lhotse Shar.

The largest and most imortant Buddhist Monastary within the Khumbu Valley is the
Tengboche Monastary pictured above. The original building was destroyed in a fire in 1989, but since rebuilt by the Monks and Sherpa people.

So I think in an earlier blog I said that Namche was one of the fave villages on the trek. I think I need to take that back. I LOVED visiting Tengboche, it is located on a plateu with amazing views of the Himalaya all around. In the village there is a museum, bakery/cafe (with amazing pastries and hot lemon tea - essentials for trekkers:), some lodges and even an internet cafe!

Main entrance to the building where prayer / chants take place.

At 4pm everyday the Monks welcome visitors to observe one of the daily chanting rituals. Apologies for the poor photo quality... no flash was allowed and while photos were allowed I felt that it was a little disruptive... so I grabbed a quick photo and then enjoyed my time listening and watching the Monks through the ritual.

Unfortunately all the teahouses were full in Tengboche, so we moved on to Deboche. We descended into a Rhodedendron Forest. Of course, since it was fall the trees were bare. I can't imagine how gorgeous this area is in the spring when the trees show off their purple bloom!!!

Scott resting after a long day - soaking up the sun and getting ready for some lunch!

Our teahouse in Deboche, after being in the beautiful Tengboche high plateau we then had to move into this cold and dark part of the valley - a little like staying in a ditch.

This is where the trekking gets tough. Because we are now above treeline wood is a luxury - so for day to day living yak dung is burned for fuel and heating. While we knew this was coming, nothing can prepare you for the lingering stench of burning poo which happens to seep into clothing and food!

Nepal Trekking Day 3

Day 3: Acclimization day in Namche Bazaar (3,440)

Today we get to rest and acclimate to the altitude, after 2 busy days I'm ready to have some rest and take it easy.


Early morning in Namche

Stolling through the village

Yaks need a break too!

Katie shopping... well, what else are you going to do at the bazaar???

Buddha Stupa in the village center

Part of our day off was a short hike to a museum and overlook dedicated to Mt Everest. Here is our first view!!! Well, the mountain you see is Lhotse Shar, Everest is hiding behind the clouds on the left side of the picture.

The trail that you see winding through the mountains is where we will be in Day 4.

The teahouse we stayed at in Namche was one of the nicest, but here is a pic to give an idea... nothing big, 4 walls and a bed or 2.

The usual afternoon clouds rolling into Namche.