On this morning we have to drag ourselves out of bed. With the altitude it is getting harder to do anything! But, yet again the weather is gorgeous and we are ready to get out of the teahouse which reeks of yak dung, and has a hole in the plywood floor for a toilet. We need fresh air - bad. Ahhhh, to think just 1.5 weeks ago we were on the beaches of Dubai!!! While I would take the Himalayas over the Dubai desert anyday, the lifestyle is a bit more challenging.
Actually we wouldn't be so annoyed except for the fact that the day before we found a clean lodge with a yummy food menu, clean and bright with windows, and western toilets! Totally deluxe for the Himalaya, but we stick out the 'real' teahouse, telling ourselves we are getting an authentic experience!
The plan for the day is to get the first 4km and a 350m climb out of the way. Sosi the guide tells us it will take 1.5 - 2 hrs to get to our first rest stop in Thokla. I laugh at him and say 'No way, I can see the trail from here and we just have to walk through the level valley which should only take 20-30 mins then a quick left and up a short hill. No problem!" I get laughed at and then we start the journey for the day.
What I didn't realize that since we had now entered a part of the Himalayas where we are in a valley at the base 6,000 - 8,000m mountains. The perspective on size and distance is totally changed. We feel like ants crawling through this valley and it really does take us 2 hours or maybe it was more to get to Thokla. Not only because of the distance but because we have to take a lot of pee and rest breaks.
Walking through the village of Pheriche
The valley that I thought would only take 20-30 mins for us to walk through...
Katie posin' in the Himalaya Valley - Taboche Peak (6,367 m) to the left behind me
Scott posin' with Taboche Peak behind him
Our photo session is allowing us some nice rest breaks along the trail:)
My face is very puffy from the yak dung smoke and the bloating (altitude side effect)
A look back on the trail to Pheriche
Even with the sun, it was pretty cold. I am wearing my glovies!!!
First sight of Thokla!
Bridge crossing into Thokla
Our final stop on our trek into the Himalaya... Thokla (4,620 m)We are about 7km from Everest Base Camp and our final planned destination of Kala Patthar. Unfortunately during the last 200 m climb up to this point Scott started getting symptoms of AMS.
- every 2-3 steps he had to stop and catch his breath
- he had led and been in front of me most of the trek to this point, now he was falling way behind (we found out this was a key indicator from HRA talk)
- throbbing headache in the back of his head
- dizziness and 'drunk' feeling
Poor guy!!!
Since the only cure for AMS is to descent, our guide suggests we go back to Pheriche. Unfortunately it is only 350 m lower in elevation and ideally you want to get the person down at least 1000 m. If things dont improve in Pheriche, we will try and hike all the way back down to Tengboche today.
Things didn't get better, the HRA gave him some Diamox to help his symptoms but we made the decision to try and make it down 1000 m. We didn't really feel like ending our trip with a helicopter rescue!
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